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Vive la France!
Vive la France Libre!
On July 14th 1789, the ‘people’ took over la Bastille in Paris and ended the Monarchy. Since July 14th 1790 they have been celebrating this great “Federation”. This new federation has been based on ‘liberté, égalité, fraternité’ (freedom, equality, brotherhood) since 1792 but has been accepted it as their national motto since 1848.
Freedom is the French’s birth right. Look at this 1793 mural inscription; « Unité, Indivisibilité de la République, Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité ou la Mort » ; Unity, Indivisible Republic, Freedom, Equality, Brotherhood or Death. It reminds me a bit of New-Hampshire motto “Live free or die”. This phrase was actually written by General John Stark on July 1809 when he declined an invitation to an anniversary reunion of the battle of Bennington. He wrote: “Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.” Since 1945 “Live Free or Die” has been the official motto of the beautiful state of New Hampshire.
I don’t want to get into politics because there is so much more than meets the eye. But if we just spent a little time looking at the history of France or any ‘old’ European countries, especially those around the Mediterranean Sea, we would realize that they have been fighting for centuries; invading and defending territories. It somewhat makes sense that some of them don’t want to fight anymore and want to enjoy the freedom they so deserve.
It’s always interesting to study history and go further than the last 100 years to understand a culture and their food for that matter. When I started reading about the Mediterranean diet, it led me to the history of the countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. I then understood the differences and similarities of the food of each country. I will have to write a book about it, it’s complicated but so fascinating.
But meanwhile, the Cagnes-sur-Mer fireworks stopped and the ones from St-Laurent-du-Var have started. I love this place; well, I always loved where ever I was. There is beauty in everything and everyone, we just need to open our eyes, and our heart.
Happy Birthday France and Thank You.
Vive la France !
Peace and Love
Josée
Friday is ‘fish’ day in many countries regardless of religious preferences. It may have started as a religious practice but it is now almost a golden rule in many restaurants to serve a fish or seafood dish on Fridays. I remember as a kid in Brittany, the fish monger would drive around small towns selling fish in his little truck on Wednesdays and Fridays. Mind you, in those days lot of people bought food prior to each meals in small rural towns across France since they didn’t have refrigerators. And they thought that as ‘Canadians’ we lived on log cabins surrounded by Indians! But they were the ones without refrigerator and running water!!! But it was fun and different for us; kind of like camping, but in a large house and farm animals all around.
Regardless, I have fond memories of those summers adapting to a totally different way of life. Being the ‘gourmet-gourmande’ that I am, every memory is attached to a food experience. And, as I walk along streets laden with restaurants displaying their menus, I often find myself smiling when I automatically realize it’s Friday; for some it could be fish and chips!
While in Juan les Pins looking for a place to eat feet in the sand and opted for “Lucky Beach” to try their ‘aïoli’. You must understand that aïoli means two things; first it’s a garlic homemade mayonnaise which was originally made using a mortar and pestle. Over time, it now also means a dish served with aïoli on the side; hence often referred to as a ‘aïoli garni’ (garnished with something else).
Aïoli can simply be a plate of fresh vegetables which may be dipped in this velvety garlic mayonnaise. But more often if you happen to be along the ocean, it will be a dish of steamed vegetables, fish and an hard boiled egg served with the garlic mayonnaise. Since it’s a Provencal dish, artichokes and beets would be included and besides fish one may find some steamed snails/escargots too.The dish was originally made using salted cod, but that too has changed and it’s now served with fresh cod fish.
As with many dishes; this dish varies depending on the region and it’s produce and available regional fish. Once I received my beautiful plate of aïoli, I noticed that I was served with mussels rather than snails. This makes perfect sense as I am on the Mediterranean sea and not inland. I had a ton of vegetables which made this dietitian very happy. The cod fish and the vegetables were perfectly cooked and very flavorful. It was served with a drizzle of basil oil, which made it so fresh and delectable. The plate was overflowing with vegetables which included three whole carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, zucchini and about five new potatoes. Even if it was a lot; I ate them all.
I enjoyed this beautiful dish with some rosé wine, feet in the sand while looking at the horizon and people enjoying this beautiful area. I enjoyed it so much that I went back the next day, I told the owner how I loved my dish with all the vegetables. Since there no aïoli on Saturday’s menu, she served my duck dish with the same vegetables I had the day before. They now expect me every Friday for lunch!!!!
Seeing a special fish dish on Friday’s restaurant menu may remind me of summers in Brittany, but eating homemade mayonnaise reminds me of home. We also had fish or seafood on Fridays and as often as we could for that matter. I remember crabbing in Virginia beach, fishing in the Keys and all those seafood dinners where homemade mayonnaise was always served on the side. For that reason I can even make mayonnaise without a whisk! One time in Guadeloupe my friends requested a salade Nicoise with homemade mayonnaise. I obliged, and I make the mayonnaise using two forks, someone had to pour the oil though. But that’s another story all together.
What are your food memories?
Would you like to share them?
Peace and Love
Josée
In the past month I have spent a lot of time in Juan les Pins a small town squeezed between Antibes and Golfe Juan. Even though Juan les Pins is only a 20 minute train ride, it’s so different than Cagnes-sur-Mer. For one thing; it’s much more touristic. There are people from all over the world visiting this small town. There are tones of Italians and a lot of English and Germans. There are also a lot of yacht men as each of these town have a marina packed with huge if not mega yachts. Hence the number of young English boys working on them.
The train ride is always a surprise as I don’t know whom I will meet. A couple of times I met couples from India. Another day I gave touring advice to Americans who were here on a cruise ship. One couple was from Hilton Head and the other one from Georgia. Another day I talked with a man from West Palm Beach and yesterday to a young lady from Boca!!!
One thing I like about Juan les Pins is that they still have a lot of restaurants right on the beach. Tables are set in the sand and one can also rent lounge chairs for the day. Juan les Pins, Antibes, Golfe-Juan and Cannes all have sand beaches compared to pebble stones in Cagnes-sur-Mer. But, the beaches in Cagnes-sur-Mer are wider and are not as packed with restaurants. We also have a wide walking and bicycle path along the ocean which they don’t have other there.
Another comparison about these towns is that in Cagnes-sur-Mer we have much more greenery, less concrete (as in buildings) and it’s much less touristic. You can see that I am a bit biased about Cagnes-sur-Mer; after all it’s my town. But one thing these towns have in common, is their people; people are nice and welcoming. I am really happy to be here and discovering this part of the world and its people.
Diversity is a good thing, so is discovery and curiosity makes it all happen.
Hope you discover something beautiful today, and I would like to know about it.
Peace and Love
Josée
It’s summer on the French Riviera; the sun is up at 6:00 AM and sets at 9:00PM. It’s wonderful to get up with the sun, it makes me want to go out and be part of the making of a beautiful day.
The pigeons are up too and usually on my terrace cooing and trying to find seeds that the doves may have left behind the night before. So that by itself wakes me up, but I used to ignore them and try to go back to sleep. But now that I see the sun rising, I jump out of bed and the way I go.
It’s nice to see what’s going on that early; there are already a few runners and cyclists, fishermen are leaving the little Cros-de-Cagnes fishing port on their small boats, others are surf fishing, there are others swimming, windsurfing, pumping air into their kite ready for kite surfing and there is even a guy in the water with his metal detector searching for treasures.
At the St-Laurent-du-Var ‘s marina, men are getting their boat ready for a pleasant ride, getting the cooler, fishing rods and the essential baguette, whereas others are getting out of their boat to let the dog out.
All along the beach city workers are picking up rubbish left behind by “what’s the name I am looking for???”, and emptying the garbage’s bins before the seagulls prick them to get to the food in the bottom of the bag.
Cafés are setting up for a busy day as people spend more time out on the terraces when the weather is so beautiful and just perfect temperature. But then as I was making my way back home I saw this gentleman who was surf fishing trying to untangle a seagull from his line. It was a big seagull, as I had mentioned before, they are huge here. I was watching him for about two minutes until I decided to help him out. I walked down to the water and help the man. He had put a rubber band around the seagull’s beak to avoid being pecked at, but the poor thing had the line all around its wings and inside its beak. I held its body in my hands trying to comfort it; I hope it realized we were trying to help. The fisherman didn’t want to cut the line as it was a brand new wheel, so we managed as four hands are better than one, especially with a bird. Other seagulls were flying around us and calling for our bird, and finally we removed rubber band and let it loose. “Vas-y, vas rejoindre tes copains” said the man meaning; “go, go meet your buddies”.
Isn’t wonderful what we can see when we ‘look’ and pay attention to what’s going on around us. It’s especially more attention-grabbing in a beautiful setting, but there is always something wonderful going on, if we want to see it.
What beautiful things have you seen lately?
I would appreciate if you let us know.
Have a wonderful day.
Peace and Love
Josée
Kafé-In a new restaurant in Cagnes-sur-Mer
About a month ago I was showing my wonderful town of Cagnes-sur-Mer to my friend as she was thinking of moving here after living in Nice for two years. As we were moving up on Kennedy Boulevard next to the Hippodrome, we stopped at this little restaurant to replenish our energy. I knew the restaurant was relatively new as I saw them renovating a few months back. Like many restaurants in France, the restaurant only has a few tables inside, but most of them are outside on the side walk (larger for restaurants). I liked the fact that everything was new; from the kitchen equipment to the dishes and silverware and all Zen like.
That day we enjoyed a plate of tagliatelle with pieces of chicken and vegetable in a coconut milk curry sauce. It was perfect, I could taste the coconut milk with just the appropriate amount of curry for not trying to make it an Indian dish. Since then, whenever I get to that part of town I always stop for lunch.
Kafé-In doesn’t have an extended menu, which means that everything is flawlessly prepared and fresh. The daily special is usually 11 Euros, otherwise they have a goat cheese salad, two fish dishes, 2 beef dishes (a tartare and a steak) and a duck dish. They also have a variety of beautiful desserts. The prices are really reasonable and I think the most expensive is 17 Euros, so that’s pretty good for ‘good’ food.
The chef and server are partners and they both come from Auvergne. Auvergne is a beautiful region but the least populated of France and as per Wikipedia; the least of all Europe! But that’s where Michelin has their headquarters, hence the famous “Guide Michelin” for those interested. But what is important here, is that the food is always good and fresh. I probably have eaten there eight times and everything was excellent; the food, the service, the portion size, cleanliness and a good atmosphere. Twice I had rabbit done in different ways; once with herbs and mushrooms served with polenta and the second time, Provencal style with tomatoes and olives served with a ‘gratin’ of zucchini and roasted potatoes. Twice I had fish, twice red meat and this past Wednesday while I was enjoying the rabbit I noticed that there would be “tête de veau” on Thursday, so I had to come back the next day. I actually saw the chef preparing it when I went inside to pay my bill. Apparently a customer asked him to prepare this very special dish and he obliged much to my delight.
Tête de veau is stuffed calf’s head!!! In France they even have a few brotherhoods dedicated to this delicacy. Before I moved to France I had never heard of “tête de veau” until I heard that it was past France President Jacques Chirac’s (from 1995 to 2007) favorite dish. Chirac was known to be a real gourmet-gourmand, he was really into regional food, actually about any food (a bit like myself).
Tête de veau is made by first removing the skin and meat from the carcass all in one piece, the same way as you debone a turkey to make a turducken. Then the tongue is placed in the middle, then rolled like a jelly roll, secured with twine and slowly poached for hours. Once cooked and cooled, it is then thickly sliced, served in the broth with boiled carrots, potatoes and sauce Grébiche (homemade mayonnaise, finely chopped hard boiled eggs, cornichons and herbs).
My friends were not interested in my meal, but Philippe accompanied me anyway. First of all, I admit that I like head cheese and tongue, so tête de veau is basically the same ingredients. The vegetables were so succulent as they cooked into the broth, and the meat was very tender. But then I was left with all the skin and layer under it, so I asked the waiter if I was supposed to eat it. He said that it’s what people like about the dish, not the meat. I started by taking a small bite of the cooked skin; it was surprisingly very good. It was not at all fatty nor chewy, it was a mix between soft cartilage and hard jelly, but very tasty. And that little Grébiche sauce was also delicious. I quite enjoyed that dish, not as much as I like oyster, but nonetheless a delightful experience. I finished the meal with some homemade Limocella the owner makes and then Philippe wanted something stronger, so we had Poire William.
Not too bad for lunch! I wish I could do this all the time, travel, try regional food and meet wonderful people and discover beautiful little towns and regions. I should try to find a job at Guide Michelin or be Anthony Bourdain’s sidekick for that matter. How fun would that be? We actually have a lot in common, except for the smoking part. Hum, let’s meditate on that.
Try something different once in a while, you may find another favorite food.
Peace and Love
Josée
Since yesterday was Mother’s Day I called Aunt Sophie to wish her a happy Mother’s Day. But like she often does, and I know that by now, she just says “oui, oui” and she doesn’t pay attention to what we say. Then I headed to the Cros-de-Cagnes as I knew the local Rotary Club was having a big ‘garage sale’ or as they call it here ‘une broquante’ or ‘vide grenier’, and by renting tables the Club makes a little money which helps them do good deeds.
Last year at the same event I had met an engineer from Santra-Lavalin which is an international engineering firm from Montreal, and I had attended a few of the Rotary’s Club meetings. I wanted to give my regards to the group and catch up with the engineer.
We enjoyed a nice cold glass of cider (here it’s an alcoholic beverage not apple juice) and we discussed what we both have been doing since last summer. It was such a beautiful day not too hot, just perfect. It was so nice outside that I didn’t want to come home. Mind you I could have sat on my terrace, but once I was out and about, might as well stay there.
I decided to go to my favorite restaurant in town ‘La Cabane de l’Ecailler’ for a crisp glass of Muscadet. I was surprised to see that it was not busy for Mother’s Day and expressed my surprise to the barmaid. “It’s Mother’s Day?” “Well yes it is.” But since she was so surprised I questioned if it was not on a different day in France. Indeed, here it’s on the last Sunday in May. Oh well! Sophie could have told me, but that’s how I know she doesn’t pay attention, especially if she is watching her favorite shows on TV. Got to love her.
I had no intention of having lunch the at ‘La Cabane de l’Ecailler’, but once I saw the beautiful oysters and other seafood, I had to stay. I simply had some oysters from Brittany and some sweet shrimps. Simple but perfect. I stayed outside and read under the tree for a couple of hours as it was just a perfect setting.
It was a wonderful way to end a wonderful week. Friday morning I ran errands with a friend in Nice and we had lunch at a restaurant that makes crêpes from Brittany. La Crêperie Bretonne Corentin, (3 Rue de Russie) is a small restaurant with about 10 tables, but the food is excellent and classic Breton. The restaurant smells like butter! What more do you want? I had a buckwheat crêpe with sautéed mushrooms and ‘lardons’ (like bacon pieces, but better) and an egg in the center. It was perfect, except that the picture didn’t come out right. I usually don’t have dessert but I had a crêpe stuffed with apples and flambée with Calvados. Man I was in heaven. Again, simple but wonderfully executed. I love living in France!
Is your mouth watering because mine is and I can’t wait to go there again.
Peace and Love
Josée
Last week-end the Hippodrome in Cagnes-sur-Mer was home again to the Le Salon des Vignerons. This particular wine show comes here twice a year and I attended it last year just three days after I landed in France. The Hippodrome is a 45 minute walk from where I lived and I came back loaded like a donkey! I had bought so much stuff, but all good stuff. I was like a child in a candy store, I bought chocolate and almond candy made with olive oil and shaped as an olive tree leave. I bought an assortment of canned pates, spices and herbs, andouille (pork intestine sausage), gateau Breton (shortbread cake from Brittany), several bottles of wine and a nice Poire William bottles.
In November I went to a similar show and bought a little bit less than on my first visit. Once I saw the show advertised I made sure to attend it as I wanted to see some of the exhibitors I met last year, specially two of them who sent me a free admission ticket. I went with the intention of not buying anything but maybe just a couple of bottles of wine. I only stopped at a few booths, despite not being too crowded, and I didn’t sample too many wines either.
Again, I met some wonderful people. As I walk walking by, a nice lady offered me to taste the wonderful Cognacs she produced.The smooth VSOP Petite Fine Champagne – controlled appellation was so nice and velvety (I really need to take wine and spirit courses so I can use the proper terms). Le Domaine de la Font de Bussac which is located between Bordeaux and Limoges, has been producing Cognacs and Pineau des Charentes for four generations now. I offered to help for the harvest but the lady told me they were using machines to harvest the grapes now, but that she still takes school kids on tours to show them how to harvest and how they make the Cognac and Pineau des Charentes. I tasted their 30 year old XO Cognac which was even smoother and tasty but I settled for the VSOP since I am still not working!!!
Then I saw the man from whom I had bought the andouille and the cake from Brittany twice before, but chose not to buy any on this visit. But just across his booth was another booth from Brittany, (if you don’t know yet, my father was from Brittany and my cousins live there) and this guy was selling seaweed, fish soup and canned fish. I had a wonderful conversation with this man who is totally passionate about seaweeds and his region. I bough some canned mackerel, seaweed, chorella (a wholefood supplement and detoxifier) and some lithothamnium powder (calcified seaweed high in minerals). Algues-armorique’s website is pretty neat as there are video clips with seaweed expert taking people to the ocean and showing them the different seaweeds right there. Very interesting.
Then I noticed these guys promoting wine and olive oil produced here in Nice. I had no idea we produced wine so close, but then I was told there are about six of them around Nice. Le Domaine de la Source is actually one of the smallest wineries of France. They produce red, white and rose wines as well as olive oil. I may try to go and harvest grapes next September since it’s on my “to do” list.
As I was walking around, my delicate sense of smell picked up something that I absolutely adore: Truffles!!!!! I love truffles and porcini mushrooms. I know some people think it smells like dirty feet, but it tastes so good. I followed the smell, and there it was; a table filled with truffles, truffle oils, salts and cooked meat flavored with truffles, sauces and beautiful mushroom products too. Last fall I had bought a small jar of the truffle and mushroom sauce, it was actually very good. Then when I went to Ventimiglia, I also bought a jar, but there was not enough truffles in it “for my taste”, same with this one, so I added truffle oil to it and it reached the threshold I like. The best one I have tasted thus far is the one that my friend Elio of Ferrari Restaurant on Bishop street in Montreal uses and sells. I know he visits his family in Genoa every summer, so I may have to ask him for his supplier’s name because it’s absolutely delicious. But this one was good enough because as soon as I got home, I bought a baguette and ate half the jar!!!!
Continuing my ‘exploration’ I walked by this booth and noticed the beautiful wine label; I had to stop. So I told the lady how I liked her wine label and she admitted that she was the creator. My friend Bob has designed beer and wine labels, so I tend to pay more attention to them now. This particular label is quite simple and ‘modern’ but since the wine is from Corsica which is the southernmost island of France, a sun drawing is very appropriate. So I started a conversation with Florence Giudicelli-Girard owner of the Domaine Vecchio as I was tasting her different red wines. I really enjoyed her bold reds and indeed; they are ‘Corsican’, so right there you should deduct that they are ‘corse’ or robust. I also tasted the Melusine rouge (red) which is a strong 15.5% alcohol wine made from 100 % Niellucciu. It was quite a mouth full and she recommended it for desserts or chocolate and I am sure it would be a great combination.
I ended up my visit with the Chateau Mongravey guy, from whom I had bought some wonderful wines last April. I had kept the Margaux 2003 for a special occasion and I drank it with Diane when she visited last November. She said it was the best wine she ever drank. We really enjoyed it, and I enjoyed the other ones too. But I told Alain that since I was not working and the US dollar exchange was so bad, I could not afford a 40 Euro bottle of wine this year. He was ‘no, no, you got to find some work, that’s too important’. So we just talked while we were drinking some Margaux 2002 and 2003. Since him and his wife were hungry, I opened the jar of mushrooms and truffle sauce and we enjoyed with some bread. I actually had Florence from the Corsican wines try it too. Neither of them ever had tried this Italian delicacy before, but enjoyed it.
So there I was, not supposed to buy too much and I did. The walk was ‘again’ painful with bags filled with wine bottles and other stuff. But I figure we have to support our local food artisans and producers. I am happy about my purchases and with the pleasant people I met. I know that when I go back in November or next April, they will remember me and it will be like meeting an old cousin.
Once I got home, I just couldn’t wait; I bough a crusty baguette, open one of Alain’s Haut-Medoc bottle and enjoyed it with the mushrooms and truffle sauce. It was a good day!
Support your local producers if you can, they are doing it for us!
Peace and Love
Josee
Yes, it’s already been a year that I moved to Cagnes-sur-Mer on the French Riviera or as we call it ‘La Côte d’Azur”’. For those who have been with me since the idea of moving to the south of France started to manifest itself, you may remember that until four hours before my scheduled flight, I didn’t know if the flight was going to take off or not.
On March 20 2010, the Eyjafjallajökull volcano in Iceland erupted. Despite being a ‘small’ eruption, another eruption followed on April 14 which released ash clouds and consequently most of European airspace was closed. Little by little it was reopened, but transatlantic flights remained cancelled until 8:00PM April 20th, when I flew out. Like my dear friend nurse Judy said: “did you really think that a volcano could stop you?” Now that I think of it, I moved to St-Lucia after a couple of months after September 11 2001. What to think of that?
To celebrate my first year in Cagnes-sur-Mer last Thursday; I dressed exactly the same, had lunch with aunt Sophie like I did last year, except that this year her daughter Catherine and her kids as well as her son Jean-Jacques were also there. I drove them to the airport, so that by itself was also a ‘repeat’ and then went to l’Idem Café, my first stop on the Mediterranean which has become my second home. Instead of having drinks by myself like last year, I was joined by numerous friends who celebrated with me.
I love it here, it feels right and still, everybody is very nice and welcoming here. I have made some real good friends and many acquaintances and I feel right at home here. I love the lifestyle and the relaxed atmosphere. The food, the good bread and butter and good wines just add to the fact that it’s a beautiful region of France.
I haven’t traveled as much as I would have liked since the flow of money was not as planned. But nonetheless, I did a lot and I rolled in lavender!!! I will most probably start working in May, so at least I will be able to plan holidays and trips. If you asked me what is the thing I liked the most in the past year, I would have to say that I enjoyed meeting all the wonderful people here. I am now part of the town, I am their “Canadienne” and I like it.
I am very grateful, appreciative and happy to be here, despite missing my family and friends “a little”. But I have my wonderful aunt Sophie, I could not have asked for a more caring and loving friend. I am so lucky to be able to do what I do.
Life is good
Peace and Love
Josée
I haven’t been writing much in the last month as nothing real interesting has happened. Of course, whenever I see something beautiful I start writing in my head. But then, I don’t think it’s interesting enough to share. But basically, spring is here and the temperature is now in the mid 60’s (18C) and the Mediterranean sea is flat as a pancake.
I spend most of my time looking for a job. As you all know; looking for a job is a full time job and there is nothing to write about that. Well, for the purpose of this blog anyway. The main difference is that the salaries are much lower than we are used to in America, but then they work 35 hours a week.
I have also made some new friends and reunited with another friend whom I met at naturopathy school last year. Good, one friend who doesn’t drink and smoke. I have also helped some friends at their business, which kept me busy and I also try to visit aunt Sophie regularly. I have started walking in the morning again, and that is always a joy. I love to look at the Mediterranean sea in the morning, it’s so calm and watching the fishermen coming back and selling their catch. Then I sit at the bench just before heading back home and I meditate. That’s another meaning for Med on the Med!!!
Tonight as I was typing away, I could see the sky getting pinker and pinker by the minute. So, I grabbed my camera and headed out. Here is what I saw.
Peace and Love
Josée
  
         
It seems as March is Carnival time everywhere; Rio, New-Orleans, Venice, Trinidad and Tobago just to name a few and also not to forget worldwide St-Patrick’s Parades going on too. But since I am on the French Riviera, I went to check the ones nearby; the Nice Carnival, our little Cagnes-sur-Mer and the Lemon Festival/ Menton Carnival.
Cagnes-sur-Mer Carnival was mainly for kids with very kid friendly floats. The cutest thing was that kids were dressed up in costumes pretty much like Halloween. As always; there were lots of little Princesses and friendly pirates and a few white rabbits and bumble bees. The main ‘place’ was closed off and kids were running around freely, screaming and shooting colorful strings from a can to anyone who came in close range. No one was safe, even the policemen. There were a few floats, lots of music and kids entertainment. I didn’t stay very long, but all the kids looked happy they were having tons of fun, and that’s what it was all about. I have to admit that Cagnes-sur-Mer always has a busy activity calendar where a lot of them are oriented towards children, and that’s a good thing.
Then we have Nice Carnival which is very popular along the coast and neighboring European countries. As I arrived close to Nice’s center, there were tourist buses from England, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Holland, Italy and also from different regions of France. All these large buses were lined up along la Promenade des Anglais and traffic was a nightmare. There were thousands and thousands of people enjoying the beautiful week-end weather.
“King of the Mediterranean” was this year’s theme so it was pretty cool to see all these fish and ‘under the sea’ type of cartoonish characters everywhere. I wrongly assumed that I would be able to see the parade without having to buy tickets. But no, they blocked off the streets where the parade went and everyone had to buy standing or seat tickets. Needless to say; I didn’t see the flower float competition. I am sure it was amazing as when I returned home, it seems that everyone had caught some flowers.
I am disappointed I didn’t experience Nice Carnival, especially since it’s over a three week period, but it had been raining the previous week-ends. For the same reason I had to hurry to Menton the very next morning for their Carnival and Lemon Festival since it was their last day. I am also disappointed because I missed the old fashioned rowing competition in Cagnes-sur-Mer and I am sure I would have loved it. I love my little town atmosphere, everyone is so nice here.
Click here to be transported to La Fete du Citron a Menton
So Sunday morning I took the train to Menton, the ride is less than an hour from Cagnes-sur-Mer. Menton is a few miles east of Monaco and it sits right on the Italian border. Funnily enough, two weeks ago a friend took me there one night; there was no parking next to the restaurant, so we parked the car across the street on the Italian border. And then we went to Monaco for a night cap. Three countries in an evening. Cool?
Since it was the festival’s last day and such a beautiful day, the train was absolutely packed. Most people that embarked at my station had to stand up for the whole hour. Once we got off the train, we simply followed the person in front of us, hoping they knew where they were going. Menton is a small town, so it is pretty easy to get around, and there were plenty of policemen and security agents who were more than happy to assist anyone with a smile.
The Lemon Festival honors this wonderful regional fruit and its cousins the orange, mandarins and kumquats. Menton used to mainly survive from its citrus fruit production; so much so that in 1929 it was the main lemon producer of Europe, but over the years it has dramatically declined. Hence, the city is now encouraging farmers and land owners to cultivate citrus and bring back the lemon that made them so famous. They actually grow a specific ‘Menton’ lemon here and they are currently in the process of getting a protected geographical indication that will authenticate their quality. So you can imagine that there are lots of stores and stands selling lemons and oranges, Limoncello and all kinds of delectable marmalades and jams. And you know that I had to have one of those large Crêpe with Grand Marnier? It’s orange liquor after all!
This year was the 78th Lemon Festival and its theme was ‘lost civilizations’. In the center of town, next to the Casino and Palais de l’Europe they built a citrus exhibit where they display large structures based on this year’s “Lost Civilizations” theme. Lemons and oranges are held by rubber bands onto a metal structure, and even after sitting there for almost three weeks, I only noticed a few of them going bad. See if you can guess the civilizations these structured represented.
Since I had learn my lesson from Nice’s carnival, I decided to purchase a ticket to watch the parade. But apparently the seat tickets are sold out six months before the festival, so I bought a standing ticket thinking I would be able to see it anyway. I went into the closed off area ahead of time to take pictures of some of the floats. As the crowd gathered, it was then impossible to see the bands, but I was able to make my way to where the bands set up and take a few pictures anyway. There were bands of different cultural backgrounds and lots of Italian ones. They even had those who throw the flag, like in the movie “Under a Tuscan Sun”. All the different music playing was really invigorating. It reminded me of the year I ‘jumped Carnival’ in St-Lucia. Yes, I did that too and it was really interesting and fun.
Even though I could somewhat see the large floats above people’s head, I left early as there were just too many people for me. I was really disappointed of not being able to see the bands play and feel the energy. Another lesson to be learned; buy seat tickets in October and come for the night parade.
Hopefully we will have better weather next year which will give me more opportunity to get to many of the festivals and carnivals of this beautiful region. But who knows where I will be next March, maybe I will be in Rio???
It was a great week-end even if I didn’t see the parades because I spent the day with a friend, met some wonderful people and enjoyed this beautiful region.
Enjoy the pictures.
Peace and Love
Josée
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